Black Olive Kakavia
Recipe created by Pauline Spiliadis, Executive Chef, Black Olive
Restaurant, Baltimore, Md.
It is said that this soup was brought to Marseilles by Greek seafarers around 600 B.C.
The French version of this dish is known as bouillabaisse and is served with a dollop of
rouille. Both in France and in Greece as around the rim of the Mediterranean sea, there
are as many versions of kakavia and bouillabaisse as there are fish in the sea. Many
recipes are based on local preference and availability of ingredients. At the Black Olive
we use fresh Mediterranean fish, flown in for this purpose, but substitutions of a good
variety of locally available fish such as grouper, mullet, rockfish, and any other whitefleshed
salt water fish will yield good results, so long as the fish is not too oily. It is said
that you must use at least six different fish for the stock. Important in the creation of this
dish are the use of the finest and freshest ingredients and a good variety of fish.
Step one:
For the stock:
Approximately 6 lbs. of a combination of the following fish: rascasse, rouget, St. Pierre,
moray eel, sea bass, snapper, loup de mer, grondin. See above for substitutions. Fillet the
fish; cut the fillets into large chunks, set aside and refridgerate, we will use these for the
final dish. Use the heads and bones for the stock.
1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil, cold pressed
3 carrots cut up into large pieces
10 cloves of garlic chopped
3 large onions chopped
1 bunch of leeks chopped
1 fennel bulb chopped, reserve the feathery tops for decoration
make a generous bouquet of garni using: sprigs of thyme, oregano, parsley and several
bay leaves.
1 tablespoon of whole peppercorns
1 gallon of water
1 quart of white wine
add sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 tsp. of saffron crumbled
In a large stockpot heat the olive oil, add chopped onions and garlic. Sauté until just
golden, add chopped celery, chopped fennel and chopped leeks, sauté another minute or
so, add the fish bones and fish heads, then add the gallon of water, the bouquet of garni,
carrots and the peppercorns. Cover, bring to a boil and reduce the heat, simmer for about
1 1/2 hours. Add the wine and saffron and bring back to a boil, correct seasoning. Turn off
heat, let cool for a little while. Strain the stock through a fine sieve to remove bones, etc.
You are now left with a beautiful fragrant stock.
Step 2:
The Rouille:
2 large red peppers roasted over a flame, scrape off the charred skin and the seeds.
5 cloves of garlic
5 slices of country bread soaked in a little of the fish stock
a pinch of saffron
1/4 tsp. of sea salt
pinch of cayenne pepper
3/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil, cold pressed
Place first 6 ingredients into food processor. With motor running add the olive oil slowly.
This should make a wonderful paste to spread onto the toasted or roasted slices of crusty
country bread, which are placed into the kakavia, when you do the final assembly.
Step 3:
1 large loaf of crusty country bread cut into 8 slices. Either toast or roast on a grill on both
sides and set aside.
Step 4:
For the final assembly of the kakavia you will need the following:
The fish stock from step 1
1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil, cold pressed
3 cloves of garlic chopped
1 cup of chopped scallions
4 large fresh tomatoes, peeled, cored and chopped, (canned plum tomatoes are fine to use
also)
1 cup of chopped fennel
12 small red bliss potatoes, scrubbed and cut into small cubes
an assortment of shellfish, enough to divide among the 8 servings, such as clams, mussels
scrubbed and debearded, lobster tails, shrimp, live bay scallops and langoustines
the reserved chunks of fish
pinch of saffron
1/2 cup of ouzo
In a good size heavy pot heat the olive oil, add the garlic and briefly sauté; add the shell
fish and toss; add the scallions, the potato cubes, the chopped tomato and enough of the
fish stock to make 8 large servings. Put a lid on the pot and bring to a boil. Simmer just
long enough to cook the potatoes and fish chunks through. Add a pinch of saffron and the
1/2 cup of ouzo.
Have ready 8 very large warmed soup bowls and divide up the shellfish and fish chunks
and broth. Insert a slice of the rouille topped toasted country bread and a sprig of the
reserved feathery top of the fennel into each bowl.
Enjoy!